Just Another Day At Work

Reb Stevenson Bavaria Toronto Star Munich Oktoberfest
I’m in Munich, working on a story about going to Oktoberfest alone. Only, when you wear a dirndl it’s surprisingly easy to make new friends...

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Into the Deep, Dark Woods

This being the Fairy Tale Route, I have been thinking a lot about The Brothers Grimm and why their stories were so captivating. For me, it wasn’t the nubile Princesses or those evah-so-clevah talking animals. Nah, it was the scary bits. Namely:
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1. Getting eaten up (you can’t just say “eaten,” you must say “eaten UP” in a fairy tale).
2. Having a terrible spell cast upon you.
3. Ingesting poison.
4. Administering poison.
5. Listening to the ’80s hair band Poison (well...I think that’s frightening).
6. Being given the old heave-ho from your loving dad, who has shacked up with a warty new wife.
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7. Good news: you’re getting a new bedroom. Bad news: it’s a child-sized oven.

Hamelin’s old town is delightfully picturesque, but today I went off in search of something a little moodier than rat toys and McDonalds’ in Tudor houses. The air was thick with moisture, lending a nice gloomy touch to the area (yes!). I was headed up the mountain that overlooks Hamelin - possibly the very mountain over which the Pied Piper led the children, never to be seen again (double yes!). As soon as I started up the steep footpath, I felt so very alone. And vulnerable. And - what the HELL was that leaf noise!?!!!! - jumpy.
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CRUNCH! CRACK! CREAK!
The forest has its own voice, you see. It tells you this: there is most certainly a hungry wolf lurking around the next tree. Or, if not a wolf, it’s a big fat Wildschwein that smells pork sausage on your breath and wants to avenge his cousins. No - it’s a cursed woodsman who hasn’t seen a woman for a hundred years, and boy oh boy is he ever “amorous.”
(Let us keep this blog PG rated).
Moreover, the forest reveals this secret: out of fear, humans walking alone through the woods develop wild imaginations - so wild, they start inventing stories that aren’t true. You might even call them fairy tales.

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A piece of the Pied Piper

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I met the Pied Piper in Hamelin today. Turns out he’s from Philadelphia. But he’d really stick out in those shoes there, wouldn’t he? I think Hamelin’s a better fit.

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Oh wunderbar, nobody speaks English

rebtrain

German may well be related to English, but when you are already hangry* and receive a menu that contains about 900% more letters than you are used to, those shared linguistic roots aren’t enough to get you fed.
I’ve been travelling in the North of Germany for five days now and have come to the conclusion that English is as scarce as green vegetables ‘round here.
Now, when you go to Germany, a dozen or so know-it-alls will probably say: “don’t worry, they speak English better than Americans.” Little do you know, your sources probably WERE talking to Americans, but were so drunk** they mistook them for Germans.
In any case, I strongly urge you to bring a phrasebook. Conveying “just a minute” with your index finger and flipping through numerous pages in order to find the translation for “one” is character building. Especially when you realize that you were ALREADY expressing “one” with that very finger.

Failing that, here’s a list of some phrases you might find useful:
Hello. Hallo.
I don’t speak German. Ich spreche kein Deutch.
Do you speak English? Sprechen sie Englisch?
Yes!? Ja!? Thaaaank you. Daaaaanke.
Which way is a public toilet? In welcher richtung ist eine offentliche toilette?
I have diarrhea. Ich habe durchfall.
Seriously man, don’t look at me with that confused face we have approximately six seconds here. (Just go pale and flail arms wildly).
.......
I had an accident. Ich hatte einen unfall.
Sorry. Entshuldigung.
Goodbye. Auf wiedersehen.

*so hungry you’re prone to angry outbursts, especially when debating directions or walking really, really far.
**Oktoberfest, naturally.

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This is Hooge!

Nick Nolte, you may be the Prince of Tides, but the residents of the Halligen - a series of ten islands in Northern
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Germany - are collectively the king. For centuries, these people have been putting up with the sea as they would a demanding live-in mother-in-law. Five or so times a year, the sea level rises and floods the islands (an event they call “Landunter”), sparing only the houses, which are built upon metre-high hills called Wafts.
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Landunters last one to two days and the residents simply wait them out in their homes. Are they worried? Nope. I look at the photo to the right and think: “Sweet Jesus, the apocalypse has come, where are my water wings?!” They think: “Great, time to catch up on my knitting.”
But in 1362, the flood DID spell disaster. Back then, there were tons of Halligen and they were well populated...until the sea rose and swept most of them away. The death toll was in the thousands.
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Landunters tend to come in the winter, though the island I visited (Hallig Hooge) just experienced one three weeks ago. A one-hour ferry ride from the Schleswig-Holstein mainland, Hooge registers 120 year-round inhabitants.
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It seems awfully quiet, except for the wind that screeches in your ears. But in actuality, it’s a thriving tourist destination: would you believe there are seven restaurants and some 500 guest rooms for rent on this tiny speck? There are nine Warfts on Hooge, the busiest of which is Hanswarft (see how cute it is, left).
Many of the houses have thatched roofs and the oldest (like
Königspesel, below, which dates to 1760) are full of Dutch tiles. There’s also a museum, little cinema, several cafes and souvenir shops on the island.
Reb Stevenson works the old bread oven at Koenigspesel on Hallig Hooge in Germany.
But really, we all know what the main attraction is. If I could do it over again, I’d take a month off, bring a few books, maybe a dvd or two (NOT the Prince of Tides), hunker down and take a “wait and sea” approach to my visit.

Cool, hey? If you’ve got questions or comments about Hallig Hooge, please leave them below!
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Crucial Travel Information

Here’s what I had for dinner on my Toronto-Dusseldorf Lufthansa flight last night...

IMG_6813

...because we all know it’s the petty details - not security or landing gear maintenance - that matter.

Also, while we’re talking overnight flights, I’d like to make a few observations:

1) When you get up from your seat for a comfort break, DO NOT use the seat in front of you as a railing with which to steady yourself. There is usually a person trying to sleep in said seat - a person who will not appreciate the
man-made turbulence.

2) Dear Lufthansa: maybe, just maybe, you could
remove those ashtrays instead of leaving them as a terrifying reminder that we’re flying on a vintage plane. You build flying metal birds. I think you have the technology to bust out a screwdriver and get rid of those suckas.

3) Dear Luddites: when you encounter a
touch-screen entertainment system, freaking out and spastically hitting the screen over and over will not make Angels and Demons start to play.

4) Dear Lufthansa: Hi..it’s me again. Sorry, I forget something. While you’ve got the screwdriver out, maybe you could look at
making muzzles for babies who feel the need to air all their pent-up grievances between takeoff and landing (I’ve seen them in customs afterwards, all dimples and coos...I’m onto them). Oh, sorry, am I being heartless? Maybe we could stow them in the overhead bins instead. Give ‘em a blanket and a pillow or something. See? I care.

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Gear: Now Hear This

Are you one of those hip cyclists who pedals down busy city streets with earphones blasting in your aural orifices? Thought so (the bruises gave it away). If repeatedly barreling into pedestrians and getting clipped by cars is
Red cyfi
growing tiresome, consider a neat little gizmo called cy.fi. This rechargeable sports speaker will enable you to hear both your precious music and ambient noise. Cy.fi connects wirelessly to your iPod, mp3 player, iPhone, PDA or Bluetooth-enabled cell phone, picking up a signal from up to 30 feet away. Mounting brackets are included, so you can attach it to your bike, stroller, backpack, etc. Waterproof and portable, cy.fi is also ideal for traveling – what better way to share the gift of Celine Dion with a bunch of newfound Russian friends in a train compartment?
$149 US (Bluetooth version) and $159 US (iPod version) at www.mycyfi.com
From my weekly travel gear column in Citizen
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"Best kept secret in the Midlands"

Lord Leycester Hospital Warwick England Reb Stevenson
Star
Story and photos by Reb Stevenson
WARWICK, ENGLAND – A gang of grandpas doesn’t stand much of a chance against dragons, princesses and knights.
The Lord Leycester Hospital is wise. It knows that competing against its neighbour, Warwick Castle (a.k.a. “Britain’s Ultimate Castle”), is a losing battle. Especially since, to really pare things down, Lord Leycester Hospital is an old folks’ home.
And so it idles quietly near Warwick’s original town gate, never trumpeting its existence. In fact, the hospital doesn’t do any advertising, period.
“We are the best kept secret in the Midlands,” boasts Gerald Lesinski, the delightfully eccentric 32nd “Master” of the hospital. What makes him so delightfully eccentric? Well, for starters, the man uses a monocle.
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10 for T.O.

Reb Stevenson O Noir Dark Restaurant Toronto Ontario Canada
Citizen
By Reb Stevenson
Hogtown is abuzz with events this fall: between the Toronto International Film Festival, Nuit Blanche and about a zillion boring work conferences, there is a good chance that you, too, will be sucked into the “T-Dot.”
As the rest of Canada likes to point out as often as possible, Toronto herself is a high maintenance female dog. So it should come as no surprise that the city isn’t content relinquishing all the glory to George Clooney and other incoming celebs. She wants some of the attention for herself.
Throw her a bone, would ‘ya?  While you’re in town, check out some of Toronto’s best nooks and crannies.
 
Dine in the dark at O. Noir (620 Church Street), www.onoir.com
Even if you’re not on a blind date, eating at this restaurant – which just opened in late June – is out of sight. Literally. Taking after the popular pitch-black dining trend that has already swept through Europe, Australia, L.A., New York and Montreal, O.Noir both scares and thrills by leaving you at the mercy of your remaining four senses and the charity of the visually impaired wait staff. At $39 for a three course meal, it’s pleasantly affordable (they save on lighting costs) and daredevils who don’t mind pawing at their plates can opt for “surprise” meals.

 
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Like dry cleaning...for your head.

batiste blush tri-lingual
Much to the consternation of modern day Rapunzels, some hotels haven’t clued in to the fact that a hair dryer is a travel necessity. And the January morning you take your sopping head upon a walking tour of Oslo, you, too, will understand that popsicle head is a hairstyle that should be reserved for snowmen. In situations like these, it’s wiser to whip out a can of Batiste Dry Shampoo – a spray that claims to absorb dirt and other cosmetic products, leaving hair clean and soft. Batiste’s new fragrance, Blush, is an ultra-feminine floral scent combining notes of Red Hibiscus, Orange, Freesia and other pretty aromas. The waterless shampoo may also come in handy for camping, long drives, and getting hopelessly lost in the desert.
$8.99 at Zellers.
From my weekly travel gear column in Citizen
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Five Feasts in Vancouver

Vancouver North Tomahawk Restaurant Native Chief Tourist

Citizen
By Reb Stevenson
Finding a restaurant while travelling is a lot like lookin’ for love.
a)     You want something you can brag about.
b)
    You don’t want to think that too many people have been there before you.
Vancouver boasts schools of fancy fish restaurants, where fillets are stacked just so atop rare root vegetables and drizzled with some sort of reduction or foam. And while these high maintenance lovelies are nice to look at, they’re not the charming down-home locals that you could be meeting.
Here are five independent Vancouver restaurants that are delicious, unusual and off the beaten path.

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Can I have your (seat) number?

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Falling love at 30, 000 feet is about as rare as getting a free in-flight meal. Air New Zealand, however, is elevating those odds by launching the world’s first Matchmaking Flight, which takes off from Los Angeles on October 13. There will be no waiting lounge thumb twiddling on this trip – things kick off immediately with a special send-off party at the boarding gate. Then once the plane hits cruising altitude, singles can start some cruising of their own with help from an open bar, complimentary party packs, speed dating and other games. If you haven’t landed a date by the time the flight touches down in Auckland, don’t despair: there’s a Matchmaking Ball the following night padded with even more unattached kiwis. And you thought airlines were against the mile high club…
A return ticket on the Matchmaking Flight from Ottawa (connecting through Los Angeles) costs from $1,698. For more information, go to www.thematchmakingflight.com.
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